The familiar flashing camera sounds of Duran Duran’s ’80s hit “Girls on Film” kicked in and a pair of New Romantic kids emerged from the Utah Utes 2022 PAC-12 Football Conference Champions Icon Bold shirt Next side of Junya Watanabe’s runway, their hair crimped into mohawks and wedges and their makeup airbrushed on like a Patrick Nagel portrait. This was Watanabe’s first live women’s show in Paris since early 2020, and for his comeback he made a lively and enlivening tour of his codes, from deconstructed tailoring to the punk-rock badassery of chains and pearls. Those first two looks set the silhouette: wide, ’80s-shouldered capes and a skinny leg punctuated by a sharp-toed boot dressed up with those chains and pearls. Some of the capes were caught by a belt in the front or cut like a trad two-button blazer, but turn them around and it was a different story: all swagger and sweeping shapes, punctuated by fabric selvedge. Shirting got the Junya treatment too; split personality button-downs were well fit on one side and unstructured on the other, a clutch of pearls holding them in place, while pleated shirtdresses came in Klaus Nomi–ish inverted triangles. About those pearls: They were worn as necklaces and integrated into garments, almost like belts, creating the kind of askew volumes Watanabe likes.
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